New River Mountain Guides

 

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Gym to Crag

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Gym to Crag Course
New River Gorge, Climbing Course
Maggie Hamill Scenic Adult 5.11d - Photo by Dan Brayack
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Cut by one of the oldest rivers on Earth, the New River Gorge and the miles of cliffs that overlook it create the perfect setting for making the transition to outdoor rock climbing. This 2 day course will build on the skills you've learned in the climbing gym and teach you how to adapt those skills to an outdoor environment.

This course is suitable for climbers who:
This course is suitable for indoor climbers of all experience levels who wants to safely transition climbing outdoors.

You will learn to:

  • Cliff side safety and crag etiquette
  • Leave No Trace Outdoor Ethics
  • Proper Rope Care and Handling
  • How to set a top-rope anchor and identify proper/improper anchor set-up
  • How to “clean” an anchor
  • Dynamic belaying
  • Climbing Techniques for improving your endurance

Day 1: FRIDAY

Travel to Fayetteville, WV and get settled into your lodging for the evening. See Additional Lodging information for recommended picks for camping, hotels or cabin rentals.

Day 2: SATURDAY

Guide(s) will meet and greet clients at Water Stone Outdoors at 8:30 am and caravan to the chosen climbing area of the day. Clients will be checked out on all of their climbing gear and go over a safety briefing. We’ll start out at the cliff with learning basic climbing knots, safety commands and terminology. Then we’ll jump right into belaying skills refresher to make sure we’re all on the same page, demonstrate good climbing movement and technique on a variety of routes with lots more climbing throughout the day.

Day 3: SUNDAY

We’ll continue to build upon and reinforce all of the skills covered on Day 1 while logging more time in on the rock. We’ll also cover anchor set-up and cleaning, so by the end of day 2, you should be well on your way to becoming a responsible and self-sufficient outdoor climber. We’ll plan on finishing up around 2pm so you can get home in time to relax before jumping back into your work week.

* Itinerary is subject to change, depending on the skills you wish to learn and the rate at which you master the material presented. Trip will run rain or shine.

Cost:
$225/person + tax, for 2 days of rock climbing in a small group setting. All technical climbing equipment is included.

When:
The Gym to Crag course will run every weekend from April through the last weekend of November. Women’s only courses are available upon request. Courses will run with a minimum of 2 people.

Clothing

Comfort outside means layering properly, knowing the forecast, and being prepared for inclement weather even when it’s a 95% chance of sun. A simple layering system gives you the widest range of comfort for variable conditions.

Spring and Fall temperatures at the New River Gorge vary with highs between the 50’s and 80’s and lows down into the 40’s. Start with a couple of moisture wicking baselayers like Capilene®. Have long and short sleeved varieties available depending on the weather. Long underwear bottoms aren’t necessary except for colder conditions.

  • Lightweight pants and/or shorts with plenty of freedom of movement.
  • An insulating fleece or thermal top for colder conditions is a must. Keep in mind that the base of a climb can often be shaded and cooler than the surrounding woods.
  • Waterproof jacket
  • Warm hat/ballcap and gloves
  • Close-toed hiking shoes (no sandals) for approach to the climbing area

Other items

  • Sleeping bag, sleeping pad, and pillow
  • Tent with rainfly
  • Daypack or CamelBak (1800 – 2500 Cubic Inches)
  • Headlamp
  • Sunblock and lipbalm
  • Toilet paper and hand sanitizer
  • Personal toiletries, medication, and towel
  • Snack food and lunch and Tupperware container for holding it. Food that can stand up to a squishing faresbest. Non sugar-intensive energy bars make excellent climbing grub.
  • At least 2 liters of water for each day. Due to the energy expended while climbing, remaining hydrated is very important.

What might be nice but not necessary:

  • Chalkbag and chalk
  • Climbing shoes (though provided, many people prefer their own)
  • Camera (everyone loves a good shot of themselves sending a tough climb)
  • Feel free to bring your own climbing equipment; if we consider it unacceptable, we may insist you use ours.
  • Climbing Harness
  • Locking carabiner and belay device
  • Helmet
  • All the major gear to get you up the climb will be provided. We only ask for an open mind and a healthy sense of adventure.

Campgrounds-$

  • Rogers Rocky Top Retreat – Kaymoor.
    This is the climbers campground of choice at the New River Gorge. If you’re into primitive camping and looking for a place to hang and be social, this is the spot for you. For $6/person/night, Rogers has brown water in the morning (coffee), coin-token showers, port-o-potties, and wireless internet access, and tent sites. Just show up!
  • Mountain State Campground – Ames Heights,WV
    Minutes from Fayetteville and the Gorge, full facilities, tent cabins, and modern bathroom facilities. Book in advance. 800-252-7784. www.class-vi.com

Hostel $$

  • River Rock Retreat & Hostel --Lansing, WV
    Located on Lansing Rd just north of the New River Gorge Bridge. Sleeps 8-12 people in a combo of private rooms and shared rooms with bunkbeds, shared 2.5 baths. Simple fully equipped kitchen with stove, fridge, microwave, toaster and coffee maker. Common area is great for relaxing after a day of climbing. A step up from camping.
    Rates: $20-38/night. (304)-574-0394 www.riverrockretreatandhostel.com

Hotels-$$$$

  • Comfort Inn – Fayetteville, WV 304-465-0010
  • Holiday Inn New River Gorge – Oak Hill, 304-465-0571

Bed & Breakfasts-$$$$

  • Country River Inn- Gatewood Rd. Fayetteville, WV
    Country River Inn is located in a building previously occupied by the Fayetteville Consolidated School. Completing a four year renovation in 2005, the schoolhouse built in 1929, is the new home to our B&B. Each of our six non smoking guest rooms include a private bath, two queen size beds, air conditioning, microwave, refrigerator, and color TV.
    (304) 574-0055 web
  • The Historic Whitehorse Bed & Breakfast – Fayetteville, WV
    This 22-room mansion was built in 1906. 19th century charm with modern amenities like air conditioning, wireless internet access, digital tv, pool table, bar, fire ring, hot tub and breakfast is included.
    877-WVA-STAY web

Cabins-$$$$$

  • Opossum Creek Retreat – Lansing, WV
    Minutes from Fayetteville and the Gorge. Fully furnished cabins of all sizes, hot tubs, full kitchens, air conditioning, nestled in the woods with nature trails.
    888-488-4836 web

Restaurants

  • Cathedral Cafe –Court Street, Fayetteville
    The Cathedral Cafe offers a full range of breakfast items, specialty coffees and teas, wireless internet access and a healthy dose of local life.
  • Pies & Pints Pizzeria & Pub –Maple Ave, Fayetteville
    Gourmet pizza, sandwiches and salads, and an impressive list of beer and wine. They use only the finest ingredients which make for the best pizza you’ll ever eat. web
  • Cowboys –Court Street, Fayetteville ($) Located just across from the courthouse, Cowboys is the place for your hamburger fix. Their pulled pork BBQ sandwich is killer and so are the onion petals with dipping sauce.
  • Gumbos –Court Street, Fayetteville ($$) Louisiana style menu offerings like Crawfish Etouffe, Shrimp Po’Boys, and our favorite the Latin Quarter Burger (Black Angus burger with a slab of brie cheese and carmelized onions).
  • Sedona Grille –Route 16 Bus. Fayetteville ($$$) Treat yourself to a special dinner at Sedona Grille. Their menu changes daily and they always offer up unique dishes to sate the pickiest of palets. They’ve also got a full bar and a great wine selection in a cozy atmosphere.


About NRMG

New River Mountain Guides has been teaching climbing at one of the premier climbing destinations on the east coast since 1994. The guide school is owned by Elaina Arenz-Smith, a semi-pro climber for the last 14 years. She is sponsored by Mountain Hardwear, Evolv climbing shoes and Sterling Rope. She is a certified guide by the American Mountain Guide Association TRSM and is currently pursuing certification in Outdoor Emergency Care/Basic EMT.

All of our guides are accomplished climbers who are chosen based on their expertise, knowledge of the area, friendliness and the ability to teach. They take their profession seriously, are committed to excellence and proud of the line of work they have chosen. You'll find that their professional approach and warm personalities makes for a rewarding experience. Simply stated, our guides truly set us apart from the rest.

All head guides are at minimum certified American Mountain Guide Association-TRSM and have training in both First Aid and CPR.


Need more info?
Give us a call anytime at 800-73-CLIMB (800-732-5462)





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