Warrior's Way Camps are perfect for those of you who have reached a plateau in your climbing and are looking for a way to give your performance a boost.
PRIVATE WARRIOR'S WAY INSTRUCTION: If
the dates of our group courses don't align with your availability, or
you prefer private instruction, we offer private Warrior's Way training
with Elaina Arenz-Smith, a certified Warrior's Way Trainer. Please call
and check availability 800-732-5462.
Warrior's Way Falling & Commitment Camp
FRI-SUN April 6-8, 2012 FRI-SUN October 12-14, 2012
This class is amazingly effective...testing those skills by falling...but also in teaching how to approach the process of the climb in a way that allows you to accomplish more than expected. Highly recommended. -Gordon Turner
AFRAID OF FALLING? Being effective in climbing requires us to understand the consequences
of our decisions and actions. In climbing the main consequence is
falling. By understanding how to fall we diminish the chance of injury
and allow us to focus attention effectively on climbing.In this 3-day camp you will learn how to more effectively deal with falling situations by applying Warrior's Way exercises straight from the pages of the Espresso Lessons book, and individualized coaching by a Arno Ilgner and Certified Warrior's Way Trainers. You’ll learn:
How to give a dynamic (cushioned) belay
How to impact the rock
How to stay relaxed during a fall
How to direct attention onto the falling situation
How to use your body most effectively when falling
How to tune in to your body’s signals of comfort
Advanced falling techniques, such as pendulums
Respond to unexpected falls as a belayer and climber
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Process:
You’ll start by learning how to fall on a loose top rope and gradually
increase your fall distance until you work your way up to taking lead
falls.
How to give a dynamic (cushioned) belay
How to impact the rock
How to stay relaxed during a fall
How to direct attention onto the falling situation
How to use your body most effectively when falling
How to tune in to your body’s signals of comfort
Advanced falling techniques, such as pendulums
Respond to unexpected falls as a belayer and climber
Process: You’ll
start by learning how to fall on a loose top rope and gradually
increase your fall distance until you work your way up to taking lead
falls.
HAVE COMMITMENT ISSUES? How do you react when you are pumped and
doubting your ability to commit? Many climbers lose commitment because
they over-think. To stay committed you need to stop at stances and think
through the risk. Then you need to make an appropriate risk decision,
and commit completely to taking action on that decision. That's the
emphasis of this portion of the camp.
You’ll learn to:
Become aware of your mind’s limiting tendencies
Use your mind’s intelligence to do effective risk-assessment
Distinguish between no-fall and yes-fall zones
Make appropriate risk decisions
Rest efficiently
Develop flow and momentum
Deal with climbing stress/chaos
Improve problem-solving skills
Reduce fear, and more
Suggested Pre-requisites:
Able to toprope 5.8 in a gym with no falls
Climb indoors/outdoors at least 1-2 times per week
At least 6 months of continuous climbing experience within the last year
AUGUST INSTRUCTORS: Arno Ilgner- Warrior's Way Founder Elaina Arenz-Smith- Certified Warrior's Way Trainer
SEPTEMBER INSTRUCTORS: Elaina Arenz-Smith- Certified Warrior's Way Trainer
Investment:
$429 + 6% sales tax Discounts available for early bird registrants, please call to see if you qualify
Space limited to 8 participants, every camp fills up with a wait list so don't delay and sign up sooner rather than later!
Registration Info/Questions:
Call New River Mountain Guides at 800-732-5462
Trad Camp: The Warrior's Way
FRI-SUN April 27-29, 2012 and FRI-SUN September 14-16, 2012
Before your Trad Camp, I had never been on anything harder than a 5.8. Well, that drastically changed this weekend. I cruised up a 5.10a route! This climb went just about as smooth as my previous day on 5.6/7 terrain. It was amazing. Until your Trad Camp, I thought the 5.10 range would be completely out of my range for a long while. My goal for this year was to do a 5.9 trad line, thanks to you two, I beat that expectations. This weekend was my best day rock climbing I have had in a long time and I really feel that you two contributed to making this a possibility. John Farrell
This course is geared toward aspiring
trad leaders who want to learn how to lead trad routes without being
paralyzed by the fear of falling. After the weekend you’ll climb
stronger, smarter, safer and more efficiently, and you’ll have the
skills you need for leading traditional routes, through the application
of the Warriors Way material.
The New is known for it's splitter cracks and "heady" trad protected face climbs, which makes it the perfect place to hone your crack climbing and gear placement skills. It's often said that if you can climb at the New, you can climb anywhere, and we tend to agree after extensive travelling and climbing all over the world. The gear placements can be tricky and the lines of least resistance can be hard to see to the untrained eye, but the rock is skin friendly and the jamming/friction is amazing.
You’ll learn to:
Place and assess trad lead protection
Build belay anchors
Lead traditional routes safely and efficiently
Take practice falls on your gear to develop confidence in your gear placements
Cracks of all sizes from finger cracks to offwidths
Assess risks effectively, allowing you to take appropriate risks
Improve self awareness, rest effectively, make deliberate decisions,
improve commitment, increase climbing momentum, and improve
problem-solving skills
Improve safety awareness
Pre-requisites:
Able to lead 5.8 sport, or top-rope 5.9 with no falls
Climb indoors/outdoors at least 1-2 times per week
At least 6 months of continuous climbing experience within the last year
Instructors:
Arno Ilgner and Elaina Arenz-Smith
Investment:
Reasonably priced at $429 for 3 days of instruction in an intimate group setting. Discounts available for early bird registrants, please call to see if you qualify
Space limited to 8 participants.
Registration: Call New River Mountain Guides at 800-732-5462
How do I sign up? Call 800-732-5462 and we can register you right over the phone. We
ask for a 50% non-refundable deposit at time of reserving your space, with the balance
due on arrival. We can also set up a payment plan for you to help
accommodate your planning and budget. Please call for
details. We gladly accept Visa and Mastercard.
Refund Policy: Due
to the high demand and the limited slots available for this course, all
deposits for Warriors Way programs are non-refundable. Thank you for
your understanding.
Have more questions? Give us a call at 800-732-5462 or email us your questions.
Trad Camp Grad John Farrell on the summit of Ancient Arts, Moab UT
When I signed up for this class, I thought my trad climbing was really good. The main thing I wanted to take away from the class was gaining confidence on falling on my gear. Prior to the class I had taken the Espresso Lessons clinic at my local rock gym which really helped me with my mental aspect for sport climbing. It removed my fear of falling, but only if I was clipping bolts, not on gear I placed. I knew this was seriously limiting my trad ability to go out and enjoy more routes without being terrified to death of a fall consequence.
After the first day of class I was completely demoralized on my gear placements. The next day I saw drastic improvements on my placement from the previous day and the crack climbing techniques started paying off too. The third day saw even more dramatic improvement that the second day! After the third day, I was falling on my gear with confidence and placing gear that fully trust now. I learned a bunch of neat tricks and tips about anchors, planning my climb, and how to manage the mental aspect of climbing.
The personalized attention that was given to me was outstanding. All criticism was very constructive and extremely positive. When talking about the gear I placed on the route I was shown photos of my placement, and then photos of how it could have been better. This was very visual and really hit home with me. I can't wait to go out and practice my new found skills! --John Farrell
Learn to Trad Climb
Thanks so much for everything you taught me. It was a great experience and has
definitely had a major impact on me. I learned a lot about placing gear, which
was my biggest goal, but I learned a lot more about areas of my climbing that
I've been neglecting, including my breathing and mental focus.
Mark--April 2010 Trad Camp Graduate
I
wanted to say thanks for hosting the trad camp, I learned so much and gained so
much confidence in my abilities (thanks to placing bomber+ gear, ahem 2.5
tri-cam). I finally feel that I’m ready to do some real trad leading! Having systems I can apply to every climb will definitely
help with focus and calming the nerves.Thanks
again!
Wanda--Sept 08 Trad Camp Graduate
I came into the weekend never having placed a single piece of gear and came out
with the confidence in not only placing gear but falling on it. I cannot begin to
tell you how much of a difference this made in building my confidence in taking
the sharp end on trad routes and the excitement I now have for exploring another
realm of climbing.
Bang--Sept 08 Trad Camp Graduate
Michael Manni
The Sport Camp was a blast. I have learned so much in such a short period of
time. I've made two visits to my gym since I've been home and I can already see
an improvement and newfound confidence in my climbing abilities. I am committing
to every move without any fear of falling as long as I'm not in a no fall zone.
Missy and I have also become better coaches to each other by stopping the use of
lines like 'You can do it' or 'You got it.' Now we coach each other by making
sure we breath and telling each other to commit to the moves. Another phrase we
frequently use is 'If you're resting, rest; if you're climbing, climb.' Thanks
for schooling me.
Michael Manni--Sport Camp June 2008 Graduate
Julius the Tradmaster
Hi Warriors, Thank you very much for a wonderful weekend. Only after getting home last night did the extent of my wounds and sore muscles finally set in.
As I sit in the office this AM (listening to "The Warrior"), I wish I were back at the New River climbing.
Besides the excellent instructional experience, I really enjoyed the friendship and comraderie. I feel like I have gained 5 new friends. I can't wait to climb with you guys again.
--Julius Pham aka The Tradmaster, April 2008 Graduate
Ladianne Mandel
Thanks so very much to you and Mike
for all of your help during the course of the weekend! Your guidance was
delivered in the most encouraging manner, and you both had so many valuable
things to offer each of us!
It’s funny - -after that first day,
I thought “gosh…I’m among so many strong climbers, and I have SO very far to
go!” By the end of the last day I thought, “what a beautiful path I’m on…and
look….there are other people on their own beautiful paths
too!”
Ladianne Mandel--Oct 2007 Trad Camp Graduate
This course has not only improved my skill level
physical performance but more importantly my mental awareness of surroundings
and assessing fall risk. I’ve learned and extended beyond what I had perceived
as my limits.-Jeanie, July 2007 Graduate
This class really helped me become more
comfortable during the climb. I learned how to relax, breathe and learn during
the stressful part of the climb.-Steph, July 2007 Graduate