3 Friction Hitches Every Climber Should Know:
- Elaina Arenz
- 3 days ago
- 2 min read
Friction hitches have many uses for rock climbers. In this article we will focus on the three most useful friction hitches. Which one you choose depends on the intended purpose, what materials you have on hand to use, and the diameter of the rope it's attaching to.
The primary function of a friction hitch is to add friction so that the climber has greater control of a weighted rope or to add security to a rope system.
Some common reasons to add friction are:
-Backing yourself up when being lowered by a new belayer.
-As a "Third hand" for backing up your rappel brake strands.
-As a rope grab when making a haul/raising system to lift or hold a load.
-Ascending a rope.
(L-R: Prusik, Klemheist, Autoblock)
There are 3 main types every climber should know, let's take a look at them and point out some of the pros/cons of each:
Autoblock: Low friction. PRO: Super fast to tie, releasable under load, bi-directional.
CON: It's easily releasable even if under load.
BEST USE: Great as a "third hand" ie backup for rappelling.
BEST MATERIAL: 6mm cordage or Sterling Hollowblock.
Klemheist: Medium friction. Pronounced "Klem-high-st"
PRO: Releasable under load, also ties well with cord and webbing.
CON: Uni-directional pull.
BEST USE: As a rope grab for ascending, or holding a load.
BEST MATERIAL: 6mm cordage, flat webbing, or Sterling Hollowblock.
Prusik: Most friction.Pronounced "Proo-sik or Pruh-sik"
PRO: It's bi-directional, with lots of holding power.
CON: Not easily releasable under load. Slowest to tie and needs the most amount of attention to dress properly.
BEST USE: It's a good choice for a rope grab for hauling systems, partner rescues, and whenever heavy loads are in play.
BEST MATERIAL: 6mm cord tied into a loop, either a short 18" loop, or a long cordelette, or Sterling Hollowblock.
Now check out this video by AMGA Instructor Team Member, Pat Ormond for a tutorial on how to tie each of these and what to consider when choosing a friction hitch.
Rules of thumb:
-Make sure the diameter of your friction hitch cordage is 2/3 the diameter of your standing rope. A 6mm diameter is typically a good starting point for most climbing ropes in the 9.5-10.5mm range.
-Be sure to dress them neatly. Ensure that the strands lay flat and don't have criss-crossed strands.
-Give it a test pull before committing to its use to ensure it grabs without slipping. If it slips, give it more wraps. If it won't budge, do fewer wraps.
Equipment Needed:
Buy a purpose-built one like the Sterling Rope Hollowblock. You can also make your own friction hitch loop using a 6mm nylon cord. Tie the two ends together with double fisherman knots.
Guided Practice:
AnimatedKnots.com is a wonderful resource for learning new knots. Prusik
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